Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city is little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to discover these tales and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
